Brivis Fault Code Manual

Q: What work will a service of my unit include?

Heaters

  • Carbon monoxide (CO) emissions check
  • Check for operating efficiency
  • Removal and cleaning of burners
  • Gas pressure and leaks check
  • Cleaning of return air filter
  • Check electrical connections
  • Full function test

Brivis Service for all Brivis Ducted Gas Heating & Evaporative Cooling. Urgent Service & Breakdown. Plum Heating & Cooling technicians are Heating Service Specialists and will Fix and Service your heater in no time. Call (03) 8360-9622 to book a Brivis Heating Service or Submit a Quick Service Form Online. Buffalo Series Buffalo BX3.

Coolers

  • Clean and sanitise pads
  • Fan motor operation (electrical current, worn parts, etc)
  • Clean internal water tank and system housing
  • Clean and check water distribution for correct saturation of filter pads
  • Leaks, drainage issues
  • Structural integrity of housing and tank
  • Deodorising
  • Full function test
  1. The Brivis heater is covered by the warranty as outlined in this manual. Brivis products are renowned for providing years of trouble-free performance. However that doesn’t mean that they will operate at their peak for all of that time without some attention. To be at their most efficient they, like most things, need a little care.
  2. Showroom 6-8 Hume Street, Huntingdale, VIC 3166 Call us on 1300 4 ATEMP (1300 428 367) / Follow us.

Q:What does 'Error Code' mean on my wall control??

There are a number of Error Codes which can appear on your Networker control. Common Error Codes are Error 30hi, Error 35hi, Error 65hi, Error 50hi, Error 55hi, Error 41hi, Error 42hi or Error 36hi, for example. These codes give a technician an idea of what problem(s) are present, including what parts may be needed. It's good to be able to quote the error code/s on the control when you book a call so that the technician can get an indication of what parts to take to the job.

Q: How do I book a specific time for a repair or a service?

After you've spoken to me to organise a day that suits you, I'll phone you the evening before your scheduled call the next day, to confirm a two-hour 'window' when I'll be arriving (for example, between 11 a.m. and 1 p.m.). This flexible window will allow for calls prior to yours that take longer than anticipated, or traffic issues, or similar. (If I'm going to be later than the time estimated, I'll phone you and let you know.)

Q: Why should I get my unit serviced? It's not very old...

About every 2 years is the recommended time between services. Regardless of the age of your heater or cooler, Energy Safe Victoria recommends regular servicing to keep your unit clean and operating efficiently and safely. It's Preventative Maintenance - just like you'd do for your car - and it can prevent a costly future repair. Your heater or cooler operates over many hours - but it's also sits idle for a lot of the year too. Both situations mean a regular service is a very wise move. You can ask me to contact you, by phone or email, when you're due for your next service call.

Your heater or cooler operates over many hours - but it also sits idle for a lot of the year too. Both situations mean a regular service is a very wise move.

A service call is a wise investment, ensuring...

  • clean air - healthy operation
  • cost-efficient running
  • reduced risk of a costly future repair.

Q: There's been a lot of publicity about carbon-monoxide poisoning. What is 'CO' and how do I check for this?

Carbon monoxide poisoning occurs after enough inhalation of carbon monoxide (CO). Carbon monoxide is a toxic gas but being colourless, odourless, tasteless, and initially non-irritating, it's very difficult for people to detect. (Source; Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki, the free encyclopaedia). Sometimes, initial symptoms can be flu-like, or perhaps there's a stuffy quality to the air in the room. Because it's impossible to know if there is a dangerous CO situation, it's essential that your heater is checked for dangerous emissions in your regular service call. Like all reputable technicians, I have special equipment to check for CO emissions at every heater call-out.

Q: How often should I get my unit serviced?

Manual

About every 2 years is the recommended time. You can ask me to contact you, by phone or email, when you're due for your next service call.

Brivis Fault Code Manual

A service call is a wise investment, ensuring...

  • clean air - healthy operation
  • cost-efficient running and
  • reduced risk of a costly future repair.

Q: How soon can you get here?

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Brivis Fault Code Manual

I'll try to get there as soon as I possibly can, but there may be issues around the weather and my area runs. But usually I'll be able to get to you within a day or two.

Q: What if you're away and you can't attend to my repair call straight away?

If I'm not working (say, annual leave or sick leave), I'll do my best to find an alternative technician for you. I know 'who's who in the zoo' in the cooler and heater repair business, so I'll refer you to a colleague who I know is reliable.

Q: Is 'Weather permitting' an issue for a repair or service?

If the weather is particularly hot - over about 30 degrees - I may not be able to work in the roof (due to insurance constraints). Similarly, it's not safe to work on a wet roof - especially on glazed tiles - so we may have to reschedule due to rain.

Q: What's the difference between evaporative cooling and refrigerated cooling (air conditioning)?

Unlike refrigerated air-conditioning, evaporative cooling doesn't dry out the air and won't irritate your skin, throat and eyes. Doors can be left open. In fact, it's essential that for an evaporative cooler to work effectively there must be an open window or door.

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Brivis Fault Code Manual Pdf

Refrigerated cooling (air-conditioning) cools down the air on the same principle as your refrigerator works - with an inverter. It has the advantage of being quicker to achieve a cold temperature, and it's unaffected by humidity. Basically: Cold and Dry (refrigerated) compared to Cool and Moist (evaporative).

Evaporative cooling is many times cheaper to run than refrigerated cooling. Because it uses less electricity, it's more environmentally friendly - greenhouse gases are a lot lower than with refrigerated systems. It's an extremely efficient and economical way to cool your home through summer. Evaporative coolers are best for those areas where the air is hot but the humidity is usually low. That's why they're particularly suited to the Melbourne climate.

With its separate Pump and Fan, you have the option of turning on 'Fan Only' with your evaporative cooler. Sometimes, a gentle and natural air movement (as with an overhead ceiling fan) is enough to keep you comfortable - the cooling operation (the pump) may not be necessary.

Q: How does an evaporative cooler work?

When you turn your cooler on ...1. Water begins soaking the cooling pads - before the fan starts (the Pre-Wet Cycle). 2. Cool, fresh air will start circulating through your home as soon as the fan kicks in. 3. Fresh air from outside is pulled through damp pads where it's cooled by the natural evaporation process.Evaporative cooling is a healthier way to cool your home because it uses fresh air that's replaced many times over the day. The air is not recirculated, so smells and allergens are expelled and the air does not become stale. Evaporative coolers work by combining water evaporation with an air-moving device - the central fan unit.

Evaporative cooling is a healthier way to cool your home because it uses fresh air that's replaced many times over the day. The air is not recirculated, so smells and allergens are expelled. Evaporative coolers work by combining water evaporation and an air-moving device - the central fan unit.

Note: CG Gas & Evap Services does not service or repair refrigerated cooling systems - only evaporative.

Q: What is gas ducted heating?

A heating unit, fuelled by gas, is connected to a series of outlets (either in the floor or ceiling) via a system of ducts. For a house built on a concrete slab, the central unit is installed in the roof. If your house has space underneath (built on stumps), the unit is generally installed outside, or perhaps under the floor. The ductwork connecting all the rooms is out of sight in the roof or the wall cavity.

The unit draws air from inside your home through a return grill (a large inlet, strategically placed within your home). This air is sucked in and flows through the heater where it is warmed. A fan pushes the air into the various rooms via ducts and outlets, producing a steady and gentle supply of warm air. A wall control regularly monitors the air temperature, to ensure that a consistent temperature is maintained throughout the house.

Gas ducted heating is one of the most cost-effective ways to heat the whole home - an electricity-powered unit is more expensive and will produce much more greenhouse gas.

Zoning your system will also reduce energy usage by only heating where and when you need it (such as upstairs or downstairs, or different sections of the house).

Hi All,
I am hoping someone more DIY than I can help me out.
I have a Brivis He20e gas ducted heater and all has been fine for a long time. Last Friday- it was working well then It went off and I had a largish plume of smoke and an electrical smell in the house. Turned it off. Called a technician. Found to be the large capacitor nearest to the main fan, relpaced it - all working again. That was until I turned it off around 9:30pm that night. Technician tells me that my unit hasn't got a lot of life left in it and that I should look to replace it...a little surprising to me given there seems to be many spare parts that are still available ( I do see that some parts, including the NG-1/LO Module 503 is obsolete and not manufactured any longer)
Saturday morning (02/05) - turned it on -all good. Started as is normal even pumped the heated air into the house for 15 minutes. Then an error message: 'Busy 40 H1 and 43 H1' on the networker screen.
Outside
I headed to the unit and I hear the main fan on like its all running correctly. On the controller in the unit:
Error flash and message - 'OHeat_R-A' then 'Postpurge'
So it seems to me that the unit overheats and switches to of and goes into post purge.
I switch off the power, leave it for 30 minutes, re-power it up. Worked again for 15 mins then same error messages on the networker screen and the NG-1/Lo.
Can anyone please advise if I need to totally replace the whole unit now? It seems like it could be just one small failing potentially replaceable part?
Keen for all feedback
thanks in advance